“Vienna’s most famous resident was Mozart.”
“What about Adolf Hi-”
“SO THE OPERA”

The Austrian capital has always been about Baroque architecture and chocolate-dipped biscuits…

Until now.

Underneath Vienna’s opera mask, her subcultures have reached boiling point.

Art

Vienna’s got more grand palaces and classical art galleries than than you can wave a little frilly hanky at.

But its also got one of the punchiest modern art scenes in Europe. MUMOK modern art museum is bulging with everything from Austrian big hitters Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt to feminist avant garde photography.

For smaller and weirder: Kerstin Engholm is high concept, contemporary art and champions young Austrian artists.

Lukas Feichtner gallery (photography, painting, installations, the lot) is well worth a peep too.

There’s even a raging street art scene here- you’ll find it all over but try Donaukanal, Spittelau subway station or ‘The Street Art Passage’ (who knew?)

A short walk south from the city centre is ‘Weiden’- the fourth district. Fancy balconies morph into converted warehouses, and grand squares into bohemian bike cafes (Hackney? 👀)

Try dumplings cooked in toilets at Zweitbester. Well, dance in a converted toilet while the DJs cook dinner. Then prepare for ‘Austria’s Next Top Knödel’ - their fashion show for dumplings (not a joke).

Music

Yep, yer boy Mozart was a pretty big deal here back in dem days. So was the opera- still is if you’re into it. But there’s also some freaky-nasty techno clubs to be sampled.

Summer’s for spilling out onto the banks of the Danube at Pratersauna and Grelle Forelle. Photography’s a nicht nicht inside, and don’t bother showing up before 1AM .

Or dance outdoors on a Sunday afternoon at Keinsonntagohnetechno ('No Sunday without Techno'). Events run every few weeks.

Sum up

Vienna’s like a grand old dame from one angle, and her tattood tear-away niece from another. Mince about the fancy baroque bits by day then head underground for a sweaty one and finish face first in the Danube.

All the nice classical stuffs’ still there, but it’s equally matched with toilet-dumplings, outdoor raves and weird art.