Fes is Marrakech’s exotic, pipe-smoking uncle.

All the oldy-worldy, Aladinny bits are there, but there’s way less chaos.

It’s famous for its tanneries (leather makers) which, to be honest, stink like a serial killer’s fridge. BUT they're worth the nostril pain.

Chouara Tannery is the best. Get a guide to take you to one of the balconies that look over it. You’ll see masses of dye holes below, like egg-boxes filled with ink.

The dyeing technique hasn’t changed since Medieval times - animal hides are soaked in giant vats of bird shit and donkey piss to soften them. Explains the smell.

Stuff your nostrils with sprigs of mint (buy em from the lads at the entrance) and check out the colourful puddles of dyes.