Plovdiv… Plov-div…. sounds like something you’d mend a loose floorboard with.

But Plovdiv is ancient amphitheatres and art-galleries by day, jazz and gritty dive bars by night.

Its earnt the title ‘European Capital of Culture 2019’ (get in.) And because it's an ex-Soviet Bulgarian city, it’s filthy cheap.

Over the years, Plovdiv’s had everyone to stay - Turks, Romans, Greeks, Armenians, sometimes at the same time (cheeky) and it shows in the buildings.

Stroll about the old town and see how many kinds of culture you can spot.

For really REALLY old culture, head for this second century Roman amphitheatre.

It was only discovered forty odd years ago (eh?!) and you get a cracking view over Plovdiv for just a couple of quid. Or catch an event here at night and see it all lit up.

Plovdiv’s in the middle of 7 hills (aka The Rhodope Mountains) This peng 11th Century Monastery is up one of them.

Stay celibate for the afternoon and check out the giant painted frescoes.

Asen's Fortress is just a bit further into the mountains and well worth a look. Plus the sacred well will do you a mean holy water (everlasting life guaranteed).

The ‘Kapana’ (or ‘Trap’ ) neighbourhood is the creative neck of town. It’ll sort you a dose of arty cafes, jazz bars and design studios.

Basquiat Cafe & Boutique's an especially good spot for a coffee (i.e wine) and a banitsa (Bulgarian pastry), sometimes with a side of live music, theatre, or comedy. Nice.

Art Club Nylon's the best piss hole in Plovdiv.

No it actually is, the toilet walls are covered with inscriptions. Shame they’re in Bulgarian and you’re an English speaking pleb.

The Soviet- bohemian pit hasn’t changed since Stalin. (Tip- come here last.)

Plovdiv’s prime and ready for the taking. There's cobbly lanes to be wandered, plush old relics to be stared at, and wines to nurse in the evening 🍷