“The fabulous land” - Alexander Pushkin, poet and Tbilisi mega fan.

And he ain’t wrong.

Sandwiched between Europe and Russia, this city is all boob shaped roofs and fruity wines. It’s been invaded loadsa times (including a spell in the USSR), but it’s managed to hold on to all its history and character.

Do This

The view from Narikala ancient fortress takes some beating - the cable car up there only costs 60p.

While in town, you have to experience the traditional sulphur baths at Orbeliani.

Follow a burly attendant to the tiled bench and show her what you’re made of. After being scrubbed with kisa mud, let big Bertha knead your body til you feel looser than Pete Doherty at the 2009 NME Awards.

Dry Bridge Vintage Market is a Sunday legend - this dusty corner of Tbilisi’s old town is crawling with antiques, artisan goods and bric-a-brac.

Shuffle round the stalls past wrinkled old men playing chess and Georgian grandmas eating strawberries out of plastic cups. That leather drinking horn has your name written all over it…

The view from the Jvari Monastery in nearby Mtskheta (not a typo) is pretty epic. Hike up and look out over your land like a Medieval king.

Eat This

Funicular serves up dinner with a view. Sit on the balcony for panoramic sights over the city. A bottle of Pirosmani and a plate of pomegranate sausage (yep) will sort that vertigo out.

Pastorali is the best place to scoff the Georgian speciality of khachapuri - a sort of cross between pizza and fondue with a fried egg on top 🤤

Drink This

Kakheti wine is a local favourite - drink unadvisable amounts of it at Konka wine bar. It used to be an old horse drawn tramcar - now it’s where the big dogs in Tbilisi’s art and music scene hang out for bohemian chit chat and jazz.

‘Only an absolute mug would drink an incredibly strong liquor they bought at the side of the road in an old Evian bottle’, you thought just hours before.

Yet here you are, guzzling it down like the water it rightfully should be. Chacha (the local spirit of choice made from wine dregs… mmm) is surprisingly good and doesn’t tend to turn people blind. Score.

Sum Up

Tbilisi has dairy-rich food, smashing views and everyone there’s drunk all the time on terrifying homebrew. What’s not to love? Go in late summer for sunshine and the grape harvest 🍷